Thursday, May 5, 2011

Flying Solo

                                                                            Train at 3am



So many adventures I don’t know where to start. I know last blog was a lot about the train situation but I have to give few more words on this travel phenomena in Vietnam. 
Roller skating rink I found in Hanoi and made some friends.
McCain's old flight suit at a museum in Hanoi. Interesting take on American prison life presented at the museum - basically everything was great. they showed pictures of soldiers getting letters from home, planting a garden, playing basketball, etc. They were just "misguided in this thinking." Makes you wonder what the truth is...

After a couple days in Hanoi prepping for my project, hanging out and chilling I met a good childhood friend of mine who happened to be working in the Philippines.
Bethany and I


Bethany and my voyage began no where else other than the train. Now, last blog I rode first class. This blog I rode 3rd class. Why might you ask would you risk an $8 train ticket – you will get what you pay for. Well, funny story. That was the only option. So, I wanted to go to Sapa and third class it was. I mean how much worse could it get….? Board the train in the wooden seat section. That is basically two wooden park benches facing each other. I am kind of tall for Vietnam so my knees almost reach the opposing bench. Four people per wooden cell. Yea it wasn’t comfortable at all in case you wondered. It was impossible to sleep obviously. But here is the tipping point – I can only sit in one position for 15 min before it hurt and I had to shift my weight. On a tiny bench for two there are only so many ways to sit. Now, the car is full of random additional people who did not buy a seat. So, Vietnamese man just sits down on our bench so that is three people on a two person bench. Then, second random man squeezes down on the floor under the benches on my feet. I literally could not move. I am not going to talk about the smells but you can imagine what it smells like in a place where dirty diapers just get discarded on the cabin floor. I have to say I have had some crazy transport experiences here and I am okay with a lot – juggling shifting luggage, tight spaces, rough roads, crazy trains, etc…but I think I actually found my limit. My limit is third class on the train in Vietnam or actually probably something slightly higher than that, maybe between second and third. 

Sapa from my Hotel
            Now considering the prior night any place would have looked like paradise. Sapa was just that – fresh cool air, huge mountains, gorgeous little French – inspired mountain town close to the border with China. It was also that great after a night in a hotel so I think it really was THAT amazing. Probably the most beautiful spot in Vietnam I’ve been to. My original plan was to get there and trek out to a village to do a homestay. Upon arrival Bethany and I headed to the first hotel we saw and checked in. Amazing was a good shower can do to spirits. We spent the day around town and headed into a nearby ethnic minority village for an afternoon trek. Great people. Best part of the day – paid $30 and upgraded to black market first class train tickets. 






Sunset

Village Trek 1

Ironic?

Tea fields


Rice Paddies


            Day two in Sapa we hired a local guide, trekked to her house, met her family and she cooked us lunch. Took a motorbike back to town and enjoyed the rush of mountain air as we winded up the narrow road into Sapa. That night we left by train to Hanoi. It was glorious. We shared a four person cabin with a Czech couple. 












            Arrived Hanoi 5am and left for Ha Long Bay 8am. The bay tour was kind hilarious. It was kind of like being babysat when your 21. “Excuse me, put your luggage here.” “Excuse me, lunch is now! Leave to the dining room immediately.” “Excuse me, now you swim.” “Excuse me, now you eat dinner.” My favorite were the rules posted in our room. In particular: “You are not allowed to move about in confusion.” Yes. Exactly. I hate it when a boat full of people are moving in confusing ways. It was pretty overall though. Spent a night on the bay. Very touristy. Back in Hanoi and spent a night at a hostel which was great and the Bethany and I parted ways.










            Now, here comes the solo. It began as a taxi ride to a bus station where I was supposed to find bus 35N 6805 to Cuc Phoung. So the bus station is a sea of buses, angry drivers, pushy salespeople and people randomly camping. Now I am the ONLY foreigner in this crazy bus lot. Everyone is starring and its not the usual curious stare. It is this angry, hating stare. So I try to walk around and find my bus. It’s not there. All the bus drivers are yelling at me to get onto their buses and getting angry because I am ignoring them. I try to sit down and that is awkward…not the friendliest folk here. Finally I find 1 lady who speaks some English and she talks to the bus driver who wouldn’t stop following me yelling at me. Well according to him my bus doesn’t run, just today ironically and I have to take his bus to Nho Quan – 20 km away from the park. At this point it is my only option and so I agree. Plus I thought maybe the bus would be better than the station. It was a really crowded local bus. I try to smile at people. They give me bigger grumpy faces back. I would have taken a photo but I didn’t dare pull out anything valuable. Not sure what was wrong with that place but it was an unpleasant experience. I have never felt so alone/disliked in my entire life. Weird feeling. Two hours later I get dumped off in the middle of this little town and the bus driver points to a man on a motor taxi. I approach him and say “Cuc Phuong.” He charges me $8 to take me there on his motorcycle when it should have been no more than $3. At this point I wanted nothing more than to get there and considering he was the only option I didn’t bother to contend. Needless to say I did arrive in one piece. Strange experience to get thrown into a situation where there are no other foreign travelers, you cannot speak the language and for some unknown reason you are instantly disliked.
            I’ve been in the park two days now with my guide. Tien is great. We are just riding around the area on his motorbike looking at caves. Been to four so far. When we hike up to them Tien is always stopping to point out various birds (he is an avid birder). It’s been good. Seen a lot of birds and butterflies. Saw a huge tarantula, a couple lizards, a few snakes, some snails, huge squirrels and one poisonous massive centipede that I almost bumped with my head on the cave ceiling. That’s about it for now. Things are real quiet here. Some nights there are other guests at the park hotel but often it is just me. Strangely quiet but a good time to slow down a bit…or a lot.

Lately I’ve been craving a muffin. I am thinking a big apple cinnamon muffin would be great. Or blueberry with an oatmeal crumb topping….

<3  

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